Thrustmaster T300RS Problems

[Xority]

Hey,

i´ve got my T300RS a week ago and it was pretty fun to drive in Assetto Corsa Competitione.

I´ve played with the standard settings drivers & game, from the beginning the Wheel smells like hot electronics/plasitc even if the case was not warm at all. So to be safe i turned on the forced cooling mode...

Now a week with plenty of hours driving i am unhappy with the power of FFB it feels less than the first days... i tried out some other settings like 100% in the drivers and 80% gain ingame but i dont know... i´am not happy with it.

If i use the 'Test Forces' inside the driver settings it feels much stronger


Is my wheel damaged or is this a game problem ?
I have already reinstalled the windows wheel drivers and resetted the ACC settings.
Another strange thing is that i have to restart the game after tweaking the settings, if not i have 0 FFB and its all super smooth


A friend of mine own a Logitech G29 and tells me that he has pretty strong FFB on the same Tracks. The T300RS should have more torque than the G29 or am i wrong ?
Unless i lose grip and throw the car off the track it feels like i can drive with one hand even if the FFB diagram is at high values.


Maybe someone can help me.
I don´t know if i should send the wheel back... the next step to Fanatec is a bit expencive
Unfortunately i have no other games to test it there.


greetings
Xority

 

[Lord Haw-Haw]

Does the FFB feel ok during the windows/thrustmaster game controller menu, holding the wheel and selecting "crash" or something else that is violent.

 

[Xority]

Yes, it feels stronger in the thrustmaster controller menu.
It shakes the desk if i hold it and chose 'enginestart'.
I can hold it while 'crash', was suprised how big the effect is when did not hold the wheel at all.

 

[TShrimp]

Yes, it feels stronger in the thrustmaster controller menu.
It shakes the desk if i hold it and chose 'enginestart'.
I can hold it while 'crash', was suprised how big the effect is when did not hold the wheel at all.

I have the same wheel, and use it on ACC. The wheel feels very light on mid engine cars, but on front I seem to get more feedback. With that said...it isn't near as strong as Automobilista 2 or even AC. I think it may be the game itself as I find the FFB to be fine, but definitely not powerful. I am actually very happy with the T300 performance. If you have the money I would suggest getting something like Automobilista 2 to compare it to, and because it is great fun. Or you can download a demo of rFactor 2 from Steam, or RaceRoom is free from Steam. It may at least give you something to compare it to.

Edit: Yes, the T300 has about 2 times the torque of the G29, so it should be putting out better than your friends. The G29 I believe is just over 2nm, and the T300 is just over 4nm, but someone can correct me if I am wrong here.

Wheel Torque. EdRacing.com iRacing

Edit #2: If you end up sending it back, and spending more money, keep in mind the Fanatec Clubsport v2.5 with a rim gets expensive. It is probably the best belt driven wheel, but they make Direct Drive wheels for about the same price these days, or maybe a little more. Accuforce V2, Simagic M10, and Sim-plicity.

 

[Xority]

What surprises me is that it felt a bit stronger the first days.
I dunno if it was smelling that much cuz it maybe was clipping... i heard of this later and have not watched the red bar at all. But if i buy a new product and use it with factory settings this should not happen at all.
There are many ppl with this smelling problems so i don´t think its a clipping problem.

I´ve bought AC key and it feels better and stronger here. I´ve tested the GTR, F599XX and BMW Z4 on Spa and Monza, its stronger than in ACC but maybe not strong enough for my racing feeling... with the next higher price in mind i can deal with that if i get it stronger in ACC2...
The CSL Elite Starter Kit should be around 6 Nm for 550€. Thats also with a belt and 2Nm more for a bit more than the double T300 Price for me... hmmm.. The Clubsport V2.5 with Wheel+Pedals maybe 800-900€.

On the rFactor2 Demo the FFB feels super weak i dunno
I will try RaceRoom, but the download will take some hours..

I think something may be wrong with my ACC with the problem in mind that i must restart the whole game after changing controll settings... but i´ve reinstalled the T300 drivers and started with clean ACC profile/settings...

 

[Dan Costa]

Yes this wheel is light on ACC. Its much better in R3E and AC1.

How true it is to the real thing in ACC, I dont know.

Mine is 4 years old and going strong. Fan on auto mode. Never smelled bad.

 

[morsify]

Hey,

i´ve got my T300RS a week ago and it was pretty fun to drive in Assetto Corsa Competitione.

I´ve played with the standard settings drivers & game, from the beginning the Wheel smells like hot electronics/plasitc even if the case was not warm at all. So to be safe i turned on the forced cooling mode...

If i use the 'Test Forces' inside the driver settings it feels much stronger


greetings
Xority

That may be your problem right there.
First, when it's new, there is a hot smell. It should only last a few days. (That happened on mine and also a friend's wheel - mine's now had a lot of use for 4 months and is fine, no smells, full strength FFB).

The wheel has a failsafe, so when it gets hot, it reduces power and so reduces the force feedback.

When you decided to turn on the forced cooling mode, you have likely turned it into the permanent failsafe mode, so the FFB is weaker.

Switch that mode off, let it smell for a day or two (although, hopefully it won't smell now as you've used it for a week, - if it continues to smell then yes there might be a problem, but hopefully that will not be the case).

That should bring your FFB back to the same strength as the test forces.

 

[Xority]

Okay thanks, i´ll try that with forced mode turned off.
It doesn't smell as strong as on the first days when I could only play with the window open, but it is still noticeable in the room and even further when the door is open.

#
a few laps on spa with the 2018 Bentley GT3 feels better than the last days, but it smells a bit more than yesterday

i´ve found a youtube video from the physics guy at Kunos and he suggested something like this what i am testing at the moment.. need to test out if it works with the other cars aswell

so i hope the smelling will be good in the next days with automatic cooling mode

 

[Mcorp]

i had 3 of the TR300 but they all failed by power brick than i got the tr500 and even that one died after a year and i decided to fix it with a different power brick (meanwell) now its working great for 3 years.

 

[maelstrom]

When you decided to turn on the forced cooling mode, you have likely turned it into the permanent failsafe mode, so the FFB is weaker.

That’s not how the mode works. It just keeps the fan on permanently to stop it reaching the temperature at which the FFB is reduced.

 

[morsify]

Ah ok, then if switching it off doesn't work, and updating firmware doesn't work, it could well be a faulty unit.

 

[asteroulis]

ALWAYS FORCED COOLING MODE ON!
You'll save yourself of many problems..
Also on the profiler the 4 bars should be 100% in order to get what developers intended from the titles.

 

[Xority]

Okay, looks like its an Assetto Corsa Competizione thing/problem.

I am still on 80% in windows and on default 100% in RaceRoom Racing Experience... tested some rounds with the Canhard R51 the FFB is nice... its how i´ve expect it to be..

The FFB on the car 'Aquila CR1 Sport GT' is great at higher speeds i wish ACC feels like that...
Dunno if there is clipping at RaceRoom, is there a interface for that ?

 

[Dan Costa]

Okay, looks like its an Assetto Corsa Competizione thing/problem.

I am still on 80% in windows and on default 100% in RaceRoom Racing Experience... tested some rounds with the Canhard R51 the FFB is nice... its how i´ve expect it to be..

The FFB on the car 'Aquila CR1 Sport GT' is great at higher speeds i wish ACC feels like that...
Dunno if there is clipping at RaceRoom, is there a interface for that ?

Yes check the keybindings menu. I changed my binding so I dont know the stock one.

 

[Xority]

Another question to the T300:

If i keep it plugged in and turn of the computer there is something like a 'coil whine' is that normal ?
Its a slight high-pitched sound, but i can hear it when nothing else is turned on in the room. (don´t call me crazy lol)
At first i was thinking its the cooler but its not
I have to unplug usb to stop that sound... its still in the power socket.

My Idea was to keep the usb connection so the wheel is not calibrating each day, cuz it hits the end positions strongly at this process.


At the moment the other things get better, so i think i will keep the wheel.

 

[Mike Murphy]

I don't remember having it on my T300's or T500's (currently on sale in Marketplace ) but I do with my CSL Elite if it is on and not in use.

 

[AmazingReflex]

I have dynamic damping on 100% which gives more resistance as you increase speed. I think 100% is the right feel for me. I have the gain at 80% I think, minimum force 5% to 10% and road effects probably 15% to 20%. The trick is to have it setup so you can feel the difference when you lose grip (goes light). If too much road effect you will miss the loss of grip feel.

 

[morsify]

Another question to the T300:

If i keep it plugged in and turn of the computer there is something like a 'coil whine' is that normal ?
Its a slight high-pitched sound, but i can hear it when nothing else is turned on in the room. (don´t call me crazy lol)

I can also hear mine still has some power going on in the the wheelbase if I listen carefully when everything is turned off. I switch it off at the plug each day to make sure it is off but it's a bit annoying to remember to do that.

 

[AmazingReflex]

I think you need to unplug from PC and switch off when finished.

Once PC has booted into Windows then power up wheel (with pedals attached) then plug into USB to activate driver and let it auto calibrate. I then go into TM Control panel and move wheel / operate pedals a few times so it detects full travel of pedals mainly.

 

[Wolfzz]

I can also hear mine still has some power going on in the the wheelbase if I listen carefully when everything is turned off. I switch it off at the plug each day to make sure it is off but it's a bit annoying to remember to do that.

Get one of these I have one and they are great saves me climbing under my desk each time, I just use my phone to turn it off and on with the Kassa app

Smart Wi-Fi Plug with Energy Monitoring

Kasa Smart WiFi Plug Slim's compact size frees up outlets. Use simple voice commands with Alexa or Google Assistant and stop overheating with its auto-shutoff. No hub required.

www.tp-link.com