Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

RCHeliguy · Dec 5, 2020

These are 8pin, 16pin and 20pin connectors. Keep in mind that the number of inputs per plug is half the number of pins.

For a 64 input board ( before rotaries ) you could use the following connectors.

12 = 3 x 8pin
20 = 2x 20 pin
32 = 4 x 16 pin

The inside of the button boxes will have a snap fit mount for these connectors. I may want to make these mounts detachable in case I change the layout in a box. These might be good candidates for press in inserts.

I'll Probably use a Letter ( per button box) and number for each connector in each box.

Tom_Hampton · Dec 5, 2020

How do you plan to connect the idc connectors to the bodnar headers? Most idc cable ends need lateral spacing beyond the outer pins. So, they don't fit into the middle of a longer header.

RCHeliguy · Dec 5, 2020

Tom_Hampton said:
How do you plan to connect the idc connectors to the bodnar headers? Most idc cable ends need lateral spacing beyond the outer pins. So, they don't fit into the middle of a longer header.

You bring up a very good point. If I used only two 64 pin ribbon cables this would work well, but that is not very convenient.

I believe that I could drill small holes so that I could push the connectors into place, but that will be a pain and I'll lose 2 inputs for each cable that I use.

I'm going to need to think about this. Thanks for bringing it up!

RCHeliguy · Dec 5, 2020

@Tom_Hampton
I have an idea.

I have more end connectors than ribbon cables and I could do is have these on both ends and then have short patch runs from the button board to the local mount.

I just ordered these to run from the Button board to a ribbon connector.

Amazon.com: FTCBlock 65pcs Solderless Flexible Breadboard Jumper Wires Male to Male for Arduino Breadboard : Electronics

www.amazon.com

It's not as clean as I was thinking it would be, but it's not bad either. I'll group things on the back section that has the button board and I'll run from the headers by ribbon to each button box..

This is my initial 16 pin connector mount. I'm using up shorter M3 bolts with this design. Otherwise I would probably just use the outside bolts all the way through.

Tom_Hampton · Dec 5, 2020

I'm not sure I understand fully. My first thought was to have a 2x32 idc connector and ribbon cable the connects to the bodnar header. Then, the split the ribbon cable into the different board connections and Crimp onto the opposite ends your 2x16 or whatever ends on it that mount to local male headers of the matching size. What we colloquially call a spider cable, at work. Then you could still use the 2x16 (for example) idc cables to run between these and the satellite boxes.

I don't know if that makes sense in words without a picture. If not I can draw a picture later when I get home. Maybe youre already thinking the same thing above and I'm just not getting it.

RCHeliguy · Dec 5, 2020

I've got it under control. Pictures will follow when everything arrives.

I'm going to have the same types of connectors on both sides.

Thanks for the heads up on something I missed. I think I managed to make a net positive out of all of this.

I just ordered some 20cm jumper wire. I can pull it apart into 8, 16, 20 pin groupings and run it to the connection mounts on the Bodnar Board side of things. Then a ribbon connecto will connect to the Button box front section connection mounts and the individual controls will connect there.

I also decided to try these same breadboard jump cables Male to Female connectors for the button front panels. The male ends will be easier to screw in place than the very thin wire was. They will likely be easier to solder as well.

BTW I'm starting to understand why some people have more than one 3D Printer

I'd get another one now, but I think I would like a new printer to have some capacity that this printer does not have.

RCHeliguy · Dec 5, 2020

The rear Steering wheel USB cord mount section is complete printed using the smooth plate.
Tomorrow the front printing on the textured plate will be done and I can screw this together.

I found out that this glue washes right off with cold water. I had some buildup on my textured board, but it looked perfectly clean after washing it. I used the glue very sparingly for this print.

I just downloaded PrusaSlicer 2.3 Beta 2.

It has a three features that look especially interesting to me.

1. Monotonic endfill which will create a more uniform surface when the top side is visible.

2. Ironing is now a feature. Reducing layer height helped with the lettering I was doing, but this should create perfectly smooth tops to the letters. I'll try this out after my new Rotaries with press button arrive and I can verify the hole depth needed.

3. Painted on supports. I definitely want more control over when supports are used and this will give it to me. I'm still trying to make designs that avoid all supports, but that won't always be possible.

mechsicko · Dec 6, 2020

RCHeliguy said:
Ordered these soldering tips for my Weller soldering iron to go with the threaded inserts that I ordered.

Heat-Set Insert Tips for M2, M2.5, M3, M4, and M5 Inserts. Compatible with Hakko FX-888D and Weller SP40NKUS Irons Used for Connecting 3D Printed Parts.: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

Heat-Set Insert Tips for M2, M2.5, M3, M4, and M5 Inserts. Compatible with Hakko FX-888D and Weller SP40NKUS Irons Used for Connecting 3D Printed Parts.: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Question: @mechsicko @Aurich

How large a hole do you make for these inserts and what soldering iron temperature do you typically use?

I was assuming I would make the hole the same diameter as the smallest OD diameter.

That CNC video showed 200C or about 400F.

My intention at the moment is to use these for the following:

1. M3 mounts for the 64 input button board
2. M5 headset hangar
3. M5 Phone mount.

I still think the square nuts are good for many of the other points.

For the ones like you bought (I bought mine when I was casting left hand Warthog grips out of urethane but they work ok with prints) I make the hole ~50% the difference between the barrel od and the od of the knurl. That seems to grab good, go in easy/straight and not gum the hole up.

For the Ruthex type I followed the guideline from the seller I got them from where you make a stepped hole for them to seat optimally but I forgot the exact dimensions. I got M4 inserts of those type with the intention of using them in my SFX cyllinder parts for if the screws holding in the upper ballscrew bearing strip

RCHeliguy · Dec 6, 2020

I'm still experimenting with control placement. This looks a bit busy and I don't expect every control to stay.

Having controls around the edges should make it much easier to find the controls while in VR.
My intent is to use edges and other controls to make it easy to find things.

I think I could fit everything on these two button panels, but I will also have an entire section on the right side with some room for controls on the other side of the steering wheel.

I'm also playing with indenting the buttons.
I still think 3D contouring could be a cool feature.

I'm experimenting with section outside the box, but will make these integral when I get closer.
I like the look of this, but I think I will want to test print some small sections like this to make sure it feels as good as it looks.

RCHeliguy · Dec 6, 2020

I'm very happy with how this came out. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

RCHeliguy · Dec 7, 2020

I put small chamfers on the square bolt holes to make inserting the square nuts easier and pushed this out.

SimLab Vertical Mount Facia USB Mount by RCHeliGuy

This is a two piece DIN USB mount for a Precision Sim Engineering Wheel through a SimLab Vertical mount without the cable touching the opening. it has a front face that attaches to the rear section with the USB mount. It may be compatible with other round DIN designs. The M3 bolt holes are on a...

www.thingiverse.com

RCHeliguy · Dec 7, 2020

The 90 degree angle connector has side slots and it slides into the connector mount base. Once the top is screwed down and there are JST connectors in place the Ribbon cable can be pulled out and reinserted without any issues. I'm pretty comfortable that this will do the job, so moving on.

RCHeliguy · Dec 7, 2020

To avoid many 20 hour prints these button boxes will have replacable sections for the buttons.

I think I'm going to have a top 40x160 and that this side section will also be a 40x160 so they are both the exact same layout.

This was a proof of concept for a 40x120mm button section. It's very easy to feel for the top or bottom 2 buttons. However the button pairs are 30mm on center and it looks like 23mm on center would be more natural for my fingers.

RCHeliguy · Dec 7, 2020

Tom_Hampton said:
I have the push-button type (B2 PN suffix), which upon inspection appears to be much more robust...presumably to handle the push-loads from the button action.

So, my guess is the CTS288V232R161B2 version doesn't have this concern.

You guess correctly. These feel bulletproof compared to the non-push button variety.
Thanks!

Not only that but the spindle is .5mm taller so I don't have to change the depth of the holes in my buttons

Knowing that and since my Pearl Blue filament arrived today, I can print my TCS knob now.

RCHeliguy · Dec 7, 2020

Doh!!!!! The next one WILL be TSC!

I haven't touched up the Blue ABS knob at all. The strings are as printed.

I guess I need separate front and rear ABS adjustments now

Tom_Hampton · Dec 7, 2020

I'm starting to get very jealous of your 3d printer.

I spent half the day yesterday, wondering around the shop trying to figure out how to solve a mechanical problem. "How do I make a little bracket that can attach to this round arm?" 3d printing would have been perfect for it.

RCHeliguy · Dec 7, 2020

Tom_Hampton said:
I'm starting to get very jealous of your 3d printer.

I spent half the day yesterday, wondering around the shop trying to figure out how to solve a mechanical problem. "How do I make a little bracket that can attach to this round arm?" 3d printing would have been perfect for it.

Can you make me a drawing? Also, need a blue ABS knob?

I am completely enamored with this thing! I ordered not even knowing what I would use it for, but just hoping that it would open my mind to different ways of solving things. That worked out better than I expected. My little 3D printer has been pretty busy and now that I'm getting better at Fusion 360, designs roll off the top of my head pretty quickly.

However all my large shop tools are sulking right now because I found something new to play with.

Tom_Hampton · Dec 7, 2020

RCHeliguy said:
Can you make me a drawing? Also, need a blue ABS knob?

I am completely enamored with this thing! I ordered not even knowing what I would use it for, but just hoping that it would open my mind to different ways of solving things. That worked out better than I expected. My little 3D printer has been pretty busy and now that I'm getting better at Fusion 360, designs roll off the top of my head pretty quickly.

However all my large shop tools are sulking right now because I found something new to play with.

I solved my little problem, yesterday. I was trying to figure a way to actuate a linear potentiometer from my throttle linkage.

But, it certainly occurred to me while I was wondering around looking in parts bins, shelves and drawers for something that I could make into what I needed, and attach to the throttle arm...that it would be a perfect thing to print.

illogicalewine · Dec 8, 2020

Just found this thread but, I used a bunch of 3D printers in Design School about 5 years ago, but wow compared to what you've done the quality is INSANE. The parts look amazing! Very excited to see your progress!

RCHeliguy · Dec 8, 2020

Tested 5mm inserts this morning.
@mechsicko I think your rule of thumb worked well. Half the difference between the narrow exterior section and the widest exterior section.

I "thought" I would just leave the rest of the hole 5mm for the bolt and to provide backing, but that meant I had to clean the squeeze out with an exacto knife.