Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

Not bad. Mine just sits on top of my amp, which is placed on the floor underneath the pedal deck. I know you need to have yours mounted due to the moveable nature of the rig, but I don't see why those spacers wouldn't work.
 
I found my brass threaded inserts and prettier SS 4mm bolts. Both sides are symmetrical, so I've started printing the first part that I'll test fit before printing the second part.

I changed to M5x16 SS bolts into T-nuts.

mountBolts_6751.jpg
 
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Strain relief for cables?
Interesting idea.

I could modify the part in back for the left side of the box to include half of a clamp that holds the cables in place and then clamp the other half to the front, or I could bolt strain relief clamps separately to the top of the profile.

I'll put what I have printing in place first and see how something like that might fit in addition to or integrated with.
 
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Surely the extension is for a sim room.....?? Which means, more parts, of course!
I get a corner in the study, but quite frankly I take when I can get. She did say the rig was too big in the study, so I offered to move it to the rear sitting room, and that was a firm no,
there’s just no pleasing some of them :roflmao:
 
My wife now laughs at me if I mention that I think my rig is finished. She has also told me that she thinks my rig is big and she doesn't want it to get any larger.

If my rig were ever causing friction between my wife and I, the rig would be gone in a heartbeat.
She gets her stables and the house, I get the garage and rig, I think I got the good end of the deal, yet she thinks she did.
if the rig caused friction in our house I’d move it out to the garage, then spend more time out there, which would probably also please her more, but at least I wouldn’t get so warm in the middle of them triples! They manage to kick out a lot of heat
 
The 3D printed mounts are in place now and the Accumotion control box is now secured on all 4 corners. I could have drilled a hole 80mm lower than the top hole and left it flush mounted, but I think this is a bit cleaner looking.

Brass inserts installed.
BrassInserts_6756.jpg


SS M4x12 bolts hold the Accumotion box to the mount.
SideMount_6754.jpg


M5x16 bolts hold the mount to the 160x40 profile.
Mounted_6753.jpg


From what I can tell there is no stress on the cables that is likely to cause the data cables to back out. The power cables have a positive lock and they would all have to come out as a group. There is no motion on the controller box side of the cable coil.
MountedControlBox_6757.jpg
 
no stress on the cables
Multiple failures of similar AccuForce cables have been reported
I bought a used 8020 rig not too long ago and spent over a week configuring it to my liking which is great, but come to use my wheel today and it wont calibrate.

It appears at some point the encoder plug has been pulled and three of the wires have come away, looking at it i could probably guess which wire goes where based on positioning, but it isnt a chance i want to take even tho im pretty sure they are just data connections.

Anyway if anyone knows the wiring order of the plug, (the smaller one of the two into the control box) or has a picture or schematic i would gretly appreciate it if you could share.

Thanks in advance.

The plug in question.
G4acbeJ.jpg
 
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In this case the Controller box wires are not moving, so that is highly unlikely to happen.

I could see this happening if the cables near the box were moving, but mine are anchored and the motion is all between the G-Belt and a coil.

According to the tracking information my shoulder belt pads have been passed to the USPS and are on their way to me. So hopefully I'll see them by the end of the week.
 
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I would also be very care will the cables and the plugs. Imho the cables with the Heat shrink tubing are way too heavy / rigid.

The risk of damaging the plugs is certainly there. I have all 4 cables of the GS-5 with the 8 plugs zip tied to a plate on which the AccuMotion controller box is mounted.

Just in case if i need to work on the rig or i catch the cable accidentally, i will not damage those fragile plugs or the connectors on the board.
 
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( This was a bit too much off topic, so I deleted it. )

But I am still editing together my rig evolution video here and there.

I'm going to try to do this one right. So far my time line is only 4 layers deep. I expect that to grow a bit. Still figuring out the appropriate graphics, animations, and legal music.
 
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For music you can use without being arrested by youtube you can try https://freesound.org - they have a huge variety so there's bound to be something suitable. Suggest browsing the tags as the best way to find things.
You may want to throw in an inception horn at some point.
Good stuff!
I used to do some video a while back and have some old sound effects and some royalty free music, but I haven't looked in a while and googling for anything free guarantees a pile of links to spam sites.

It's also been a while since I actually took my time and edited a video properly. My recent stuff has been mostly off the cuff, single shot, no do overs and run with it with very minimal cutting. Basically stuff I can shoot, render and upload in an hour.

A few more hours gone and almost 1 minute partly put together.
I'm sure it will all change before anything is put out.
video-editing.jpg
 
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It takes a lot of time and effort to produce a good video and yes finding good (royalty free) back ground audio is always an issue.

At least you have a great voice to listen to, which is a key feature that i'm do not have :roflmao:

A rig evolution video is a good idea, i might do this one day to.:thumbsup: I still have a back log of almost an entire year of updates on my rig that i still need to post in my topic.

Like you i also get stuck while trying to put out a decent video because of the time and effort it takes to do the editing. And then a couple of months later so much has changed on the rig that i have to shoot the entire video again :rolleyes:
 
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Got a couple more hours in this morning. It's probably going to take me a few weeks at this pace just to get everything in place in the the right order. I feel like there will need to be some narration/explanations along the way.

I'm going to continue playing with dialing in the "right" amount of motion with the G-Belt.

I believe the G-Belt is easier to add to a static rig or a full chassis mover. With a firm seatbelt and a seat mover pivoting, my obli1ques are getting too much of a workout with my current NLRv3 motion settings. This seems to be a combination of having a moderate FFB strength and having my body fighting the motion more while I'm steering. So I'll be dialing the motion back this morning.

Without a seatbelt your body tends to move a lot on a seat mover and your head is effectively a gimbal which is why I haven't used any VR motion compensation with my NLRv3 to date. Now my body is moving in unison with the seat, so less motion is likely necessary to feel each effect.

I'm not sold on the shoulder harness pads. They take away a lot of the detail from the G-Belt. I'm going to try a recommendation to use a shirt with a collar to protect my neck from the edge of the belts and remove the pads.
 
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The answer to chaffing with the G-Belt is simply to wear a polo with a collar!
Get the belt pretty snug over the shoulders, but leave the lap belt so it just snaps in easily.

I've got my NLRv3 dialed down and now it all seems to be working well.
I dialed up my G-Belt shift effects, and added more to the Cornering effect and dropped the NLRv3 body roll and dropped the surge effects for shifting and acc/decel. The good news is that I get a much better brake feel and the seat isn't moving when I brake in any way I can notice.

I'm am loving the combination of wheel slide feel (tactile) and G-Belt brake tension. What's interesting is that you can feel the downshifts and it makes you more aware of the fact that downshifting can unsettle the chassis in a corner and feeling cornering G's from the separate belt transducers helps you feel how much of a sideways G force you have on you.

Awesome! Sounds like you found a really good tool to up the immersion factor AND make you faster.
Would you say the G-belt could be used without a motion platform or would that be a completely stupid idea?

I had to answer this a second time.

The G-Belt would not only work well on a static rig, but I would take a G-Belt on a static rig over having an NLRv3 every time. As I continue to dial this in I'm finding the G-Belt is MUCH more valuable on the track.

In Rally I think the NLRv3 sells what is going on better and the G-Belt only adds immersion, but on the track the G-Belt really shines!

Of course that is Dirt Rally 2. I haven't tried Rally Cross in iRacing. I may feel different there.
 
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Nice, as I am not a stylish guy and always wear a polo shirt with a collar, this has been my go to for the seat belt and always worked :)

I am not sure if I mentioned it before but for the belt I found that a linear profile was not as good as you can get. I am not familiar with simvibe and how you can set it up. I did find that with it using a linear profile it didnt pull much at lower speeds and then got you good at high speed braking points.

I ended up going with more of a curve so that I still had headroom to pull me in if thats what I wanted for hard stopping but it was using more force at lower speeds as well. That made an improvement to me to feel like the belt was part of all the racing.
 

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