Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Deleted member 1451080]

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[Deleted member 1451080]

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[GeekyDeaks]

Austin Martin V8

This is the third time today I have seen someone write this Is it because of the F1 this weekend?

 

[RCHeliguy]

This is the third time today I have seen someone write this Is it because of the F1 this weekend

Mr. Latte's 5 layer engine profile was optimized for ACC and an Austin Martin V8.

I've been using it in iRacing on the Ferrari 488 EVO GT3. I tweaked it a tiny bit, but it came over pretty easily. The only exception is that the redline effect doesn't kick in unless you are in neutral. I'm going to learn now to tweak that one layer because the rest appear to work well across a number of cars.

 

[anton_Chez]

I think everyone missed my point but whatever, I don't care.

This is not brain surgery. If you create effects for a BK LFE / CT, it will work as intended, for the most part, on ANY BK LFE / CT. I wasn't even talking about effects before but since it's been brought up that you need 10000% the same setup to use someone else's effects, this is bullshit. Why not let the person using them decide if they are good enough for them, or not? I install hundreds of houses worth of curtains and blinds a year. You know how many of them I'd have in my house? Guess.

A set of effects for each of the main units, for example, should be sufficient to get anyone even mildly interested in Simhub and tactile off on the right foot and get them pretty close to where they'd want to be. Then, if you have a bunch of the same units, or different ones, you can choose where to send the effects yourself and also how to best balance them amongst each other.

I couldn't care less anymore. I've been running SOLELY engine vibes for the past 3 months ONLY, simply because I cannot, yet again, be arsed messing around with new effects for my new units. I can't even remember if the TST has the effects being sent to it or not. I'm so exhausted by this aspect of sim racing that I'm happy to just leave it the way it is until it bothers me. I suspect it won't.

 

[Deleted member 1451080]

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[metalnwood]

Sorry I feel that you did not get my point….

…It is not about “getting the performance out of the box close to what it says on the box” for the Behringer amps but it is about to try to get the full potential of the BK LFE and therefore from the system.



If in order to get the full potential of the BK LFE (and therefore from the system), we need a more powerful amp, then let‘s use it. It could be a NX6000D instead of the recommended NX3000D. I don‘t see a problem here for switching the 3000 for a 6000.

I hope dmass will give us some feedback (see above).

I am starting to experiment the Simhub and DSP profiles that RCHeliguy posted and I want to be sure that also the hardware doesn‘t have a bottleneck somewhere.

I am currently running for my seat 2 x BK LFE and 1 x TST 429, paired with a NX3000D for the BK LFEs and a NX1000D for the TST429 (specs of the NX1000D are even higher than the Samson Servo 300 that was recommended to me from TST. They however stated that I had to limit the power of it for the TST429). My 4 x DA 40W exiters should arrive next week together with the Dayton Audio mini DSP.

Why spending thousand of dollars like you said and have a bottleneck that could be removed by just swapping an element. Here in this case the NX3000D for the BK LFE for the NX6000D? so easy IMHO.

You could look at a couple things on you amp. It tells you the signal and the output. Are you clipping, are you hitting the red lights on the front? If you are and you dial the effect volume back a bit so it is not hitting the red are you happy with it?

If you are not seeing the amp hitting the red and happy with the output of it then a different amp is not really going to help. The BK will draw the power it wants, the red will tell you if it cant supply the power that bk wants. If you are not seeing than then more power wont matter.

 

[Deleted member 1451080]

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[Deleted member 1449502]

Just tested the nx6000d with no limit set for 2 x q10bs. I used to have an issue with the front one where at really low Hz (3Hz-9Hz) it would would make a banging sound like the driver was hitting the top. I theorised that it was possibly due to the placement on the tray (I have it vertically mounted between my brake and throttle, where my rear one is mounted on a bracket, which amplifies the torque)...Nope! it was me setting the limit at 900watts per channel at 8ohm. Now I have them uncapped at a max of 1600w per channel and that has completely disappeared.

The rear one was always delivering crazy low Hz vibes with the bracket, so I just assumed it must have been placement related for the front. Very grateful that this was asked, as I don't think I would have ever taken this step, and I would have been missing out on a great deal...now time to go and rethink the effects/balances for the q10B's

 

[metalnwood]

yes, going that low, you have probably bumped up the db around that to compensate and it will be trying to use a lot.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Crown amps have smart cooling that only turns on when overheated (practically never), next step up from Behringer without going for crazy expensive stuff, DSP is pretty basic though, just high/band/low pass crossover.

@TonyMM, review of Crown XLS2502 from the same site that tested Behringer (spoiler alert, it pushed 800Watt x 2 @4Ohm)

Crown XLS2502 Stereo Amplifier Review

This is a review and detailed measurements of the Crown XLS2502 DriveCore (switching) 2-channel amplifier. It is on kind loan from a member. The XLS 2502 cost US $645 including free shipping from Amazon. It has DSP functionality which I did not test. And is specified to drive 2 ohm load...

www.audiosciencereview.com

I use smallest one, XLS1002 for Mini-LFEs.

 

[Deleted member 1449502]

yes, going that low, you have probably bumped up the db around that to compensate and it will be trying to use a lot.

So do I need to worry about driving them too hard now with the limit uncapped? Here are the specs off of earthquakes site

Q10B

• power handling: 1000 watts RMS
• Impedance: 8 Ohm
• 5 cm stroke
• from 5 to 70 Hz frequency response
• High Impact Energy
• Large tactile power
• Movement: 2 inch / 5cm
• Piston Mass: 675 cm

 

[metalnwood]

hard to know, do they have some sort of cutoff like the BK's do? So could you drive them to where they would shut off without damage and give you a clue that you should limit the power?

You could do an experiment and limit the power, bumping it up 50w at a time from 900 and see when they start behaving themselves and leave the limit there. Maybe it's only 100w more, who knows.

If you have certain frequencies that you knew were problematic it shouldnt take too long to make a change, test etc.

Sounds like you could test every 50w in under a minute if you have a computer connected to make the changes.

 

[Deleted member 1449502]

Great idea! I'll be doing that. Thanks dude

 

[Deleted member 1449502]

Isn't the cutoff with the BK shakers happening from the BK amp side? I didn't think the cutoff was from the BK shaker itself

 

[metalnwood]

BK has a thermal limit in the unit from what I understand., amp wouldn't know whats happening to it.

 

[Deleted member 1449502]

Oh ok, that makes sense. The way I had it figured before now sounds really stupid lol

 

[Deleted member 1449502]

Progressively went up from 987 around 50w at a time and ran a drift track recording on loop I had which has alot of wheel slip and gforce layered effects.

Sometimes I would go through multiple loops with no issue and then I would get the banging sound. It was gradually improving where it would take more loops. I finally landed at 1493w where the banging fully went away

 

[Deleted member 1451080]

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[Deleted member 1449502]

On the NX6000D yes, but I also have a BKC on a NX3000D. I always ran that with no limit as was Mr Latte's recommendation