Profiler:
overal strenght 80 (not shure here)
constant 100
periodic 100
spring 0
damper 100
min damper 0.0 (is that a pfrofiler or game setting?)
auto center 12% (through game)
Looks good. However you can keep the "spring" at 100. It's just the directInput Spring FFB channel. Like the damper ffb channel, it's not doing anything at all if the game doesn't use it.
If a game uses these ffb channels, it's probably for a reason!
auto-center is the one that puts the wheel to the center no matter what the game says (but it's overwritten by the "through game" checkbox).
It's confusing because it's called "center spring" in the Logitech profiler...
In game:
FF strength 100 (I can lower that for each individual car by just pushing +/- on trak right? Seems like a good thing to assign a key on the wheel)
filer 0
minimum force 3
kerbs 5
road 8
slip 25
abs15
enchanced understeer, half ffb - OFF
Looks good too! I'm not sure that you can assign a key.. I guess content manager can do it.
Do you use content manager yet? It's awesome.. And there's the CSP (custom shaders patch) with rain and night and what not..
I have most of this stuff disabled apart from the performance optimizations, TAA (which looks phenomenal in AC) and the new FFB tweaks extension!
I say this because the ffb tweaks extension from CSP replaces the standard gyro, which has some issues regarding realism.
And put slip to 0, I'll tell you why later on
My CM and CSP settings regarding this advanced stuff:
CM:
CSP:
So the kerb setting is only for tracs without 3d kerbs. So there is no fake effekt on kerbs wich are implemented as 3d model or do both effekts take place in that case? And what about the other way - If there is no 3d model every Curb rattels right? Even if its a flat one. Not shure if I would like that. I´m driving Nordschleife most of the time.
It's easy to understand this when you know how the "road" and "kerb" vibrations are activated.
In the track folders, you'll find a "surfaces.ini".
In that ini-file, you'll find entries for every type of surface this track has. Looks like this:
[SURFACE_5]
KEY=CURB
FRICTION=0.95
DAMPING=0
WAV=kerb.wav
WAV_PITCH=1.3
FF_EFFECT=1
DIRT_ADDITIVE=0.0
BLACK_FLAG_TIME=0
IS_VALID_TRACK=1
SIN_HEIGHT=0
SIN_LENGTH=0
IS_PITLANE=0
VIBRATION_GAIN=0.3
VIBRATION_LENGTH=1.5
So whenever your tyres touch the KEY=CURB type of surface, you'll get a vibration sent to your wheel.
Independent of this surface type => vibration, you have the actual physics calculation from the 3D-model of the kerb geometry.
This is why I have this setting so low. I want to know when I'm on a kerb-surface, since the grip is reduced there and I just want the feedback.
But the vibration is low enough to not interfere with the rest of the ffb and especially not with the actual physics from the 3D kerbs.
I am confused why you should want an ABS car feel the same way as a non ABS car. Would you mind to clarify? If I get slipping front tires due to brake bloking I would like the steering to feel extremly light and quit diffrent from the experiece of an only partly blocking ABS brake.
When driving as fast as possible, you need to trailbrake and keep the tyres on the edge of the traction circle.
As soon as your tyres lock up or go into the abs, you won't be able to steer without exceeding the limit.
Of course it's unrealistic to get vibrations from lock ups, it's just feedback so you know that it's happenening. The moment I start to feel the lock-ups in my wheel, it's already too late... The vibrations start earlier though.
So basically:
ABS car: vibrations = needing to lift the brakes to be able to steer
Non-ABS car: vibrations = needing to lift the brakes, and definitely needing to lift the brakes to be able to steer
I simply need the feedback from the vibrations to know when I lifted enough to steer again.
But if you're not driving competitively, setting slip to 0 would be more immersive and realistic. It's fun to have this weird feeling in the wheel when locking up. It's not the fastest, but it's fun
I do not care for competitive driving. All I do is lonesome rounds on the Nordschleife just for fun. In generell my driving style is one with a lose tail. I´m not drivfting all the time but like the feeling to do it in a reasonable maner on at least some corners. Is 20% the right value for me or not?
As written above, put slip to 0 then. Your reasoning makes sense for me
Some additonal Questions:
Should I use the FFB clip application? Seems a good combination with the +/- keys bound to some keys on the wheel. Any good links for a how to?
No, I wouldn't recommend it. At 100% gain in the game you won't have "too bad/much" clipping. It's the default value from Kunos, they don't put garbage as the default.
You get more dynamic though with lower gain values, which is nice if you have enough ffb power in your wheel to make this more dynamic ffb feel good.
With a G27, the ffb would become so light that it wouldn't be fun anymore...
So my advice would be to start with 100% and then lower each car to your liking (or even raise it, if a car is weak..).
But I'm going to "correct" myself under your next quote...
Not so shure about the base and in game gain strength for my t300? Should I go for 100/100 or 80/100 or 100/80? I like it harsh and strong but not unrealistic in my small experiance in the real world there are forces at work my g27 could not even come close to display.
80/100 or 100/80 will result in exactly the same AVERAGE force in your hands.
But 80 game and 100 wheel will give the headroom for the game to go up to 100. So you end up with 80/100 average and 100/100 peak forces.
With 100 game and 80 wheel, you end up with 80 average and 80 peak.
Note: you won't have 80 all the time! The ffb will be around 0-10% on the straights and go up between 60-100 when cornering.
I would say going with 80/100 is better. The wheel should be able to take some higher force peaks
If I use a high value how likly is it to harm my wheel? Is forcing the fan allways on helping and how do I do that?
I don't know.. some say it's fine for multiple years, some say it broke their wheel.. There's no reliable statistic about this.
Putting the fans to always on will help though, yes!
For how to force the fans on:
When I got back into sim racing awhile back, I blew my budget on the computer so I have been using my old T150 with t3pa pedals while I save for a Fanatec. As luck would have it, the T150 is going south in a hurry and I don't have the funds for the Fanatec yet. I can afford a T300RS now to go...
www.racedepartment.com
boomRoasted put the part of the manual in there